Month: April 2016

Duclos Gearless Ep. 10

For the carburation and fuel tank, I’ll be using the trusty vapor carburetor. This type of carburetor has been very effective for our small model engines.

For more information on this type of carburetor, see Jan Ridders Website (you can switch it to English at the top of the page).

First, I prepared a piece of brass tube and angle, which I then soldered together. The angle will provide a flat mounting surface.

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The filler neck is made with a radius to fit onto the tube. The nipple with the slot for the mixture adjustment is also prepared. Here I made the mistake of drilling the trough whole a bit big, and left very little “meat” at the bottom of the thread (why it was a mistake you’ll see in a few pictures down).

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The filler and nipple are soldered in place.

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The tank will be removable from the engine, using keyhole type hangers. I didn’t plan on a drain for the tank. To empty (and fill for that matter) the tank, it can be easily removed from the engine.

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A bezel and a lid are turned. The bezel has a watch crystal as sight glass glued in place.

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I also made a mixture adjustment nut, and that’s when disaster struck. While I was tapping the nut, I didn’t tap quite all the way through. And because there was so little material left at the bottom of the threads, the slightest torque twisted the nipple right off. I just about threw up and a few choice words where spoken that shouldn’t be repeated here.

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Anyway, after I calmed myself down, I remade the nipple, this time with a bit smaller through hole, and assembled everything together.

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To hang the tank to the engine, I made a bracket. Nothing crazy here, so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

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Added a couple of hangers to the bracket, for the tank to clip in, and mounted the bracket to the engine.

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And finally, a picture with the tank/carb in its position on the engine.

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Thank you for stopping by my shop.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment and I’ll get back to you.



Duclos Gearless Ep. 9

In this episode, I’ll continue and finish the governor.

The weight arm bracket is next. This will hold and provide a pivot for the arms.

I started on the lathe, turning a ring out of 6061 Aluminum stock.

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Using the trusty soft jaws, the ring is then chucked up in the vise for milling.

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The next operation was to mill the slots where the arms fit in. I clamped the bracket vertical, and used a slitting saw. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture.

…and the finished bracket.

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The last part for the governor is the latch.

I milled it out of a brass bar, that was just about the right thickness. It only needed a light surface cut to bring it down to the correct dimension. To hold the work, I used CA glue to bond the brass to a piece of aluminum, which I then clamped in the vise. The contour is milled using light cuts, to not put too much load onto the glue bond. It worked very well, and I think I could have done deeper cuts, as the glue held really well, but I just didn’t want to take any chances. Once the milling was done, a bit of heat to release the glue and separate the part from the aluminum backer piece.

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The governor assembled on the engine:

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To illustrate the “run” position, I’m pushing on the spool to extend the weights.

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…and to finish this episode, a picture of the engine at the current state of the build. We are getting really close to the finish now.

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Thank you for visiting my shop.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment and I get back to you.



Duclos Gearless Ep. 8

Now that we know that the engine will run, I’ll continue the work with the hit and miss governor.

The governor works with holding the exhaust valve open, when the engine is above governing speed, interrupting the four stroke cycle, and allowing the engine to coast. Once the speed decreases, the governor latch will release, and the engine will fire again. The term Hit and Miss is from the distinctive sound the engine makes while running.

I’m starting the work with the governor weight arms. The arms translate the centrifugal force of the flyweights into a linear motion. The “fingers” of the arms grab into the spool to convert the motion from rotating to non-rotating.

First, I machined the contour to finished size, milling a bit deeper than the thickness of the finished parts, to allow for the second side to be finished later.

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Unfortunately I didn’t have fitting brass stock and ended up wasting a lot of material when I machined the back side off to cut the two pieces free. A slitting saw would have been an option to save some material, but I didn’t have a fitting one on hand.

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After cutting the pieces free, I finished the second side to the final thickness.

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The last operation was to cut a round mounting boss, where the wights will be mounted on. I clamped the square part very gently in a round collet.  That’s not ideal, but as long as none of the edges end up in the slots of the collet, and the collet doesn’t get cranked down too hard, it works alright.

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The finished parts:

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The spool was a straight forward turning job.

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The arms and spool together.

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Next, the fly weights. The weights have a recess to fit around the hub of the flywheel. The first operation was to mill the recess with the same radius as the hub on the mill.

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Then, I moved over to the lathe and finished the outside diameter to size and parted it off.

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Last operation is to drilled and tap the holes for the set screws. This will also provide a mounting location for the springs.

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The finished weights:

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Thank you for visiting my shop.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment and I’ll get back to you.


Sub-Compact Stump Grinder Ep. 3

The stump grinder is finally ready for a test run!

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One thing the test run showed, was that I needed a way to better tension the belts. I added tensioning screws to the bottom of the arm, which allow me to push on the pillow block bearings. You can see in the pictures above, how loose the belts are. But even with the belts loose, and starting to slip taking a heavy cut, the test run was still a total success.

For the finishing touches, I fabricated a guard for over the cutting disc, this will keep some of the flying debris at bay.

The hoses got routed and secured to the frame, to make things nice and tidy. The PTO shaft safety chains where permanently installed.

And finally, the grinder received a yellow paint job.

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This will conclude the stump grinder build.

I hope that some people are inspired to build their own machine.

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment and I’ll get back to you.


Sub-Compact Stump Grinder Ep. 2

Before I begin with showing how I made the parts, I’m publishing the drawings for the main three components of the grinder. This is not intended as plans to follow and build one, it’s there to guide and help you design your own. It can be a tremendous help, to have something to start from and then design and alter from there.  They are not 100% complete either, as I made the drawings for myself to work from. I always feel having a set of drawings in the workshop makes life a lot easier. One could argue that would be an unnecessary step, as I have 3D models available, and I designed the whole thing, so why paper drawings? I find myself referring back to the drawings a lot, double checking dimensions, pondering (and maybe refining) the design, and even a place for a quick note…


Frame.pdf               Yoke.pdf               Arm.pdf


Lets make some parts:

I didn’t have a way to chuck up the cutting disk in the lathe, as my chuck is simply too small. Instead, I machined it on the mill.

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Some of the brackets are machined and ready for welding.

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Milling the slots for the pillow block bearings. This will allow me to tension the belts.

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A few shots while I was welding the arm.

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The frame is test fitted on the tractor.

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The welding on the main components is finished, ready for assembly.

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First mock-up with the hydraulic cylinders.

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Yours truly, checking the travel of the hydraulics. Nothing binding, everything moves free.

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The pulley need to be adapted to fit the gearbox.

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Cleaning up the outside diameter of the cutting disc. Again, due to the size of my late, I mounted the disc on the shaft, which I then chucked up in the lathe.

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The cutting disc and shaft with the pillow block bearing are installed on the arm.  The disc got also the Greenteeth pockets mounted. For more information on the pockets and teeth, see:

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Thank you for visiting my shop.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment and I will get back to you.